October 21: Bruges, Belgium

I got up on Tuesday morning and enjoyed a continental breakfast of cereal and toast at the hostel before setting off for the day. I had intended to get up early and bike up to the sea, but it had been raining late in the night and into the morning so rather than brave the weather at 6am, I slept for a few more hours.

I met up with my Canadian friend and we explored the town together, starting in the Markt, which is the city center and full of tourists on every corner staring at maps and occasionally looking up with confused looks on their faces then staring at the map again. Hilarious. Admittedly, I was one as well, but I still found humor in it.

We wandered through the Belfry (decided not to pay admission to climb the tower, though) and looked at the large photography exhibit in displayed in the courtyard. Nor sure what the photos were about or where they were taken, but about half were of a UN truck and African children. There were also some more nature-oriented photos. I tried to ask what the display was, but the lady I asked didn’t seem to understand my question, or else didn’t know the answer.

The next stop took us around the corner to the Heilig-Bloedasiliek (Basilica of the Holy Blood). Since 1149, this church has housed a fragment of cloth stained with what is said to be the coagulated blood of Christ, wiped from his body by Joseph of Arimathea after the crucifixion. We got there around 10am and the veneration of the blood was at 11am, so we left and looked around a little photography display put on by a local photography club and returned at 11 for the veneration. I went up and touched the vial and then contemplated the authenticity for a while as others went up as well.

From the Basilica, we wandered around for a while, gazing at the storefronts full of chocolate and marzipan and chocolate sculptures and other amazing treats. My favorite was a large chocolate dinosaur that must have been a meter tall or more. Of course, we had to get some hot chocolate made from real chocolate, not just powder. It’s hard to go wrong with hot chocolate, but this was certainly a finer blend.

The wandering then took us to a courtyard among churches that had sculptures of the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse. Very creepy.

Around the corner, we found the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady). It is home to a Carrara marble Madonna and Child created by Michelangelo in 1504, the only one of his works to leave Italy during his lifetime. Marble is one of my favorite mediums, mostly because its so majestic how an artist can make the movement of flowing garments out of stone, but I have to say, I couldn’t tell the significance of why this Madonna and child was any prettier than the others. Still, I’ve now seen a Michelangelo.

About this time we were hungry for lunch: I got fries with Ketchup, Eric got fries with Mayonaisse – very European. Then we took a tour of De Halve Mann brewery, which brews only beer still made in Bruges. It’s called Brugse Zot, or “Fool from Bruges.” The tour was interesting and the rooftop had a nice view of the city.

As we sampled the local product at the end of the tour, an older couple asked if they sit at the table too – the only tables available were tables for 8 and there were just two of them and two of us at this one. Of course. Oh, you’re American? the man asked me. Yes, where are you from? Washington state. I’m from Iowa. No kidding?! My wife and I, we’re from Leon, did you hear that dear? She’s from Iowa! Yeah, my grandpa lives in Clarinda, I’ve spent the 4^th of July in Leon. Who’s your grandfather? And the conversation carried on. They were visiting their son at Cambridge and decided to see Belgium as well before heading back to the States. They shared their meat and cheese with us, offered to buy us another round, practically pushed Belgian chocolates and nougat into our hands (ok, we didn’t resist much). You’re from Iowa, you’ll do this for someone when you’re our age too, they told us. We had a great conversation about their travels, her visits to archaeological digs in Turkey and his mission trips to do surgeries in Latin America. A lovely couple. I knew that the longer we talked the less likely it was that I would make it to the chocolate museum by closing time, but it was fun to talk to them and there will be other chocolate museums.

We walked with the Iowans over to Prinselijk Begijnhof ten Wijngaarde (Princely Beguinage of the Vineyard) and she told us the story of the Begijns, religious women similar to nuns, who accepted vows of chastity and obedience, but drew the line at poverty and made a living by looking after the sick and making lace. It was a beautiful courtyard tucked away from the busy streets with its own quaint little church. The Begijns are long gone, but the area is now occupied by Benedictine nuns.

I glanced at my watch and knew there was no way I’d make it to the chocolate museum now, so I enjoyed a waffle (that’s right, a real Belgian one) in a small café. On the way back to the hostel to recover my backpack, I checked on hotels for when my family comes to visit over winter break and found a couple of possibilities. I wasn’t quite ready to leave and wanted to stay another night, maybe see Antwerp or Brussels on the way back the next morning, but I was low on funds and not sure if my latest wire transfer had gone through so I figured it was safest just to head back. On the way, the window about 4 rows ahead of me in the traincar cracked and had to be replaced at the next station before we could continue our journey. It actually took much less time than I expected which was nice and I still made it back home by midnight – tired but thrilled with my first backpacking success!

October 20: Gent, Belgium

The semester here is split up into two terms so rather than midterms, we had finals in mid-October. In the week leading up to finals week, I had a major presentation so I spent the weekend in recovery. I didn’t have a final exam until Friday, though, so on Monday morning I departed for my first solo backpacking trip. I had acquired a train ticket to Bruges, Belgium from a friend and it expired on Friday, so I might as well use it.

I arrived in Gent, Belgium on Monday afternoon and hit up a few tourist destinations. I started off in the Belfort en Lakenhalle (Belfry and Cloth Hall), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I climbed 215 feet up the 298 foot Belfry and got a great view of the city. I was at the top with the gargoyles when the bells chimed the hour, and I watched as the automated gears began to turn to ring the bells.

Just next door to the Belfry is Sint-Baafskathedraal (St. Bavo’s Cathedral). The exterior is a mix of Romanesque, Gothic, and baroque and the interior is filled with paintings, sculptures, screens, memorials, and tombs. The main “attraction” is Jan van Eyck’s 24-panel altarpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. I stood staring at the detailed piece as at least two tour groups walked through.

My final stop was the Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts). I didn’t arrive in time to go into the castle, but I wandered around the outside looking at the architecture and the fortifications. I also wandered along a pretty stretch of canal before heading back to the train station – I had a hostel booked in Bruges and wanted to find it before dark.

I just barely caught the train to Bruges (saving myself a 30 – 60 minute wait for the next train) but it was so crowded that after walking through 3 train cars, I did like the other students and sat on the floor in the entry/exit part of the car and listened to my Dutch language podcast.

After a bus ride and a great deal more walking than necessary, I was able to find the hostel just as the sun went down. I checked into my room, left my bag in a locker, and followed the directions of the receptionist/bartender to the nearest grocery store to buy dinner. Pizza and juice seemed like a good enough choice until I returned to the hostel’s kitchen to find that there was no oven and the microwave appeared to be broken. Luckily, the microwave only appeared to be broken so I stuck the pizza in and figured soggy pizza was better than frozen pizza.

As I waited in the kitchen I talked to the other backpackers and ended up eating dinner with a Canadian who just applied to medical school and decided to travel Europe while waiting for the decisions of the schools. We wandered around town that evening finding some nicer pubs and some pretty shady ones. I was amazed at how silent the town was at night. After the cobblestones began to wear on our feet, we headed back to the hostel for some rest before the next day’s adventures.